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Friday, December 8, 2006

Wha' Happened?

Oh Man.

Well, at least I waited until the last leg of my trip to really slack on the updates. I made it down to the southern coast of Thailand. My jaw dropped to the ground and when I first got there I was saying "wow" alot under my breath as to not seem like another awestruck tourist. The tourist.

Lets get this out of the way now. I'd like to go on record by saying that there are two very distinct side of the tourists coin in Thailand. On one side I'd say that they have almost single handedly raised a developing country out of the slums. The amount of money that is pumped into this part of the world from the tourist dollar is awesome (and I don't mean that in a cool way, I'm saying it as like the amount is huge). It's provided better wages, roads, and access to modern technology amongst a host of other things for the local people in southern Thailand. Now the other side.

White people are ruining the world. I saw more white people in southern Thailand than Thais. Most of the tourists don't really give a shit about the people who live there. They are on holiday and expect these people to cater to their every need. What used to be beach communities have transformed into polluted cash cow towns. I use the word polluted for two reasons. 1:The towns can't really keep up with the amount of people roll through on holiday i.e.buses, boats, garbage. 2:The local people have been polluted. I was constantly berraded by people wanting to sell me stuff and they moved us around like cattle from one place to the next. There was little to no chance to get to know a Thai on a level where they could share some stories with you. I had encountered this before in India but not nearly on this scale. If I had gone there on holiday than maybe I would have seen it differently, but I wasn't. I'd seen things at this point that made me sick of people being polluted. Saving the world is going to be really hard. Lets move on.

I got down to Krabi, a beachside community, and checked in at my bungalow. I went down to the beach and went for a swim and walked around. There were boobies on the beach and so that made me happy. Sunbathing topless in the States has yet to really catch on and I'd like to say that its a fine idea. Boooooobies. I walked around and took a path to the next beach over where upon the end of my walk I was surrounded by little monkeys called Gibbons. Monkeys and boobies.

The next day I took a longtail boat (the main type of transport and sound pollution when you're near water) to a secluded peninsula called Rei Lai. When I got there I saw a cave that was frozen in time with quartz bleeding out of the limestone (I forgot to mention the limestone. Huge outcroppings of limestone were everywhere down here. I thought that they were volcanic at first but it turns out they are like old coral that shoot up in the air. Some are 20ft. Some are 200 ft. They are a sight to see for sure {for all the rock climbers in my life, you would have a heart attack if you saw all these faces. I wished you could all be with me}). I went to climb up this little cliff to a lagoon in the middle of the limestone but it started raining that really hard tropical rain and decided with my knees and all that it would be too slippery. I ended up back at my bungalow and began to drink beers with the Irish. Are they actually born with a beer in thier hands?

The next day I set out for the Ko Phi Phi islands. The ferry ride to them lasted about 2 hours and on the way I met some Kiwis (New Zealanders). They ended up being the coolest people I met in Thailand. I hadn't really had the pleasure of traveling with these guys much and the ones I met far outdid my expectations. We landed on the island and the water was what I had been looking for. Terquoise, in every way. I met the Kiwis at the beach and we walked out into the water which never got deeper than our knees which suited us just fine because we waded there on our bellies and backs the whole time. At one point the lady Kiwi pulled her red card (Whats a red card? On thier trip so far whenever one of them pulled a red card no one could be without a drink in thier hand for the rest of the day. I was hanging out with the Kiwis which apparently meant that I was a Kiwi for the rest of the day. Oh shit). Someone brought beers out to us in the water and there we stayed, through a rainstorm that came through, for the next 3 hours drinking beer and laughing. We decided to go and get ready to hit the bars after our hands looked like they had aged 50 years.

The next part is honestly a little hazy. We went to the what will probably be the first and only "Mens Night" that I'll ever go to. Free shots for men. Yay men. Those of you who know drunk Nathan know that he is a singing man. Thats what I remember (and consequently a bunch of people Thai and tourist told me the next day that they, "recognized me from last night because you were the one singing"), singing alot. I sang in the sidewalks (no cars are allowed on the island), in the shops, to people, and at one point in a Thai karaoke bar. They didn't have english songs so I just improved the Thai. After awhile a Thai guy came with a guitar and plugged in. He played "Hotel California" and it went like this..."On a dark dessert highway. Cool wind in my hair. The warm smell of colitas, rising up through the air. On thefgf blahdk diddy blak bluk, nirenioniongonooimn WELCOME TO THE HOTEL CALIFORNIA". Not pretty. I cohersed the guy to give me the guitar and started playing some Ray Charles, Otis Redding, and GNF'R. I ended up on stage playing a hour and a half set completely wasted as the bar to show thier appreciation was feeding more alcohol. Unreal.

It wasn't long after that I passed out in my bed. When I awoke the next morning it felt as though someone with a poison coral fist punched me in the back of the head and then turned me around and punched me in the temple with an oak hammer. Hey speaking of poison coral, I went snorkeling with my new Kiwi friend David the next day. We met our guide and made off for Phi Phi Lei the smaller and uninhabited of the two islands. I could fill a whole other entry with what I saw underneth the water. It was truly amazing. Sharks, different colored fish, eels, everything you could ask for. The visibility under there was like nothing I had ever seen as well. In the middle of it we got to go to Maya Bay which is where they filmed the beach in "The Beach". The water there was probably the clearest I'll ever see in my life. I pretended I was a stud and walked in the water with my best Leo swagger and enjoyed myself for a moment amongst the hundred other people doing the same thing.

We finished the snorkeling and I had to get back to Phi Phi Don to catch my boat back to the mainland. I said goodbye to the Kiwis and as I got onto the ferry and went back to Krabi the weather got to be shitty again. No matter, I laid pretty low for the rest of that day and got a good nights sleep. The next day I awoke to the sunlight and went back to Rei Lai to try to climb the little cliff again. I did it this time and the cliff ended up being a tough little climb. There was a robe there to help but there were points in which I figured I was screwed. I can't really bend my left knee and my right can only take so much abuse until it goes out. The climb down into the lagoon was what really hurt. Small 25ft. rock faces going straight down. Ouch.

When I got down the lagoon was at low tide and so no worth it. I climbed back up, miraculosly without major injury and went to a lookout point. When I made my way off the cliff I cursed myself for doing that and found my way to a restaurant where I enjoyed my last good Thai meal complete with some Thai pancakes for dessert. I was leaving for Bangkok that night on a bus and so I got my stuff together and made my way to the station. The ride up was long and the movie they showed on the bus was by the same guy that did "Kids". It was a terrible movie that included foul language, nudity, rape, drug abuse, and murder. Fucking Thailand.

I got into Bangkok at 5:30am and walked around till Koh San road opened up where I did a little Christmas shopping and went to the airport. Thailand was a trip to say the least. Strikes and gutters in this little kingdom in SE Asia (Inever mentioned it but these people LOVE thier king). I'm in Hong Kong now and what I'll say is that it is big. Mumbai might have been the biggest city in terms of numbers but this place feels bigger. I want to come home now. Back to what I know. Back to Seattle (even though I heard the weather has been nuts lately). Back to my friends. Back to the woman I love. It's time. I'll be home soon. Yay.

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