Rafiki, Rafiki! Ohhhhhh Zanzibar.

Mambo,

Quinn, Sarah, and I left in the morning on Friday. It was still dark out when we arrived by taxi at the ferry docks. Should you ever take the ferry to Zanzibar early in the morning, try not to show up while it's still dark out. SCETCHY!!! We did however make it on the boat unscathed. The trip from Dar to Zanzibar went by pretty quickly for me, I just put some Led on and passed out. When I awoke the water was a different shade of greenish blue than I had ever seen. The island looked like it was cut out of a book that I should have, but never read. We stepped off the boat into another world.

The first person we met off the boat was a guy who called himself Mr. Banana. For those of you who are privey, this WAS Adieudu. His voice was deep and he was a huge man. "Don't peel Mr. Banana, Ha, Ha, Ha". We ditched that guy, cleared immagration, and found our driver. On our way out of Stone Towne, we stoped so I could get some new sandels. The only pair that fit were these hidious yellow things on my feet. I asked Quinn and she lied and told me they were hot so I got them. We drove for an hour to the east coast of the island and arrived at Pongwe Resort.

We wanted to splurge for one night and this was the place that I picked. Awesome choice. We got introduced by Heidi from Zimbabwe to the ins and outs of everything at the hotel. I think thats the first time I've been given an intake at a hotel. We went to our room and the coolest thing was proabably that we had hot water for showers. After we soaked in the room we went to the water to soak up tropical goodness. The beach was so secluded seeing as there were about only 20 other people there. This place only has like 10 bungalos and we were sticking out like a sore thumb seeing as we were not on our honeymoon. Quinn and I both lamented the absence of our loves. I miss Bethany, I miss Bethany, I miss Bethany. After we swam and sat in the sun, I met a cool couple from Germany. They were, yup, on their honeymoon. We planned with them to go snorkeling in the morning. We played Scrabble in the evening and I got my ass kicked by Quinn who apparently is a world class Scrabble player. Just so everyone knows, AH is a word. They challenged me on that and I lost at a critical point in the game. Whatever, I'm over it. That night we had dinner on the beach, which is something they don't do very often. We sat with Frank and Dani (the cute German couple), and had some amazing food. After dinner, and still on the beach, we were treated to a Massai dance. 5 Massai guys chanting and jumping, so incredibly cool. We went to sleep on a soft bed, another luxery these days, and dreamed of monkeys and Stone Towne.

Quinn and I woke up at the break of dawn and went outside to see the sun which had just risen. I only mention this because I probably took the coolest picture that I've ever taken. We took a boat to go snorkeling and saw all sorts of stuff. Tropical fishes, coral reefs, and underwater creatures. I had to dive extra low to see them because I could'nt wear my glasses. The day was already good and it wasn't even 9am. We had breakfast and killed time on the beach untill it was time to go to Jozani Forest.

We arrived at Jozani, fed Quinn (she's cute as hell but can be unruley if she dosn't have food in her), and met our guide. We were walking for about 5 minutes and there they were. Red Colbus monkeys. There were only a few at first but then as I got used to my surroundings they came out of the woodwork. There were about 20-25 in the troop and they were everywhere. We got to get right up close to them and oh my god, we did. I took so many pictures and just watched them. This is the closest thing to a safari I'm going to get to do and I just milked it. They were cute but also fascinating in the way they moved and ate. After the monkeys we went for a walk to see the Mangrove trees. There was a boardwalk that led us through a swamp with all sorts of different kinds of fish. The trees were interlocked at the bottom and the boardwalk was wild looking. Hard to describe cool to do!

After Jozani we went to Stone Towne. This is the heart of Zanzibar and about 90% Muslim. The whole place has an island vibe, but before this the only island vibe I knew was Hawaii, Key West, Monhegan. This was vastly different but similar. We walked to a place called Mercury's for dinner. It's named after Freddie Mercury, the lead singer of Queen, who was born a few blocks away. Interesting thing, a restaurant honering a gay man in a place where if you are openly gay you are prosecuted. Decent food and drink but we were tired and we were taking on the city in the morning.

We were awoken that morning with the Islamic call to prayer at 5am. It's so cool to hear that over the loud speaker asking thousands of people for their worship. I've gotten used to being woken up by roosters so this was a pleasent change. We started our walk through Stone Towne and all I can say is that this was so different than anything ever. The narrow streets covered in cobblestone in the labryinth of this city were so exotic to me. The smells emanting from the little shops and the sounds of the people were wild! The only downside were how aggresive the touts were. "Rafiki, where are you from, whats your name, buy this CD". Rafiki=friend.

"Rafiki",Rafiki","Rafiki". Ohhhhh Zanzibar. I did buy a lot of Christmas presents and as aggresive as they were, the place was so damn cool, I figured, who cares! We walked around all day and ended up in a little cafe called the Archipeligo (did I spell that right Sarah cause God knows I can't say it). These little bugs pulled their best Bush administration on us and bombarded us from the air. It was a hassle but all part of Africa.

The next morning we got up and went spice shopping. I got all sorts of stuff including Curry, which is now a personal favorite. Chili stuff for my Pop (you're gonna love this tuff big guy). All these spices would've costed so much back home. It was next to nothing here. We walked around and tied up some loose ends and we were on our way to the airport. I got to sit co-pilot on the way back in a small plane and I instantly felt like an 8 year old. We returned back to Dar and I'm now gearing up for the second half of my stay in Africa.

Quinn and Sarah were about as close to perfect traveling partners as you can get. They were willing to do anything and fun to be with. Zanzibar was everything I thought it might be and more. It's a place I want to go back to and bring my family. I even got a Muslim hat and shirt so that when I go back I can wish peace to everyone. In fact why don't I do that right now...

Asalaam Milakum

Nathan

I'm Finally Here

So I'm finally here. My ass caught up with me after being in London the last week. A few things first. Mama Rose is amazing. The only thing cooler than her actually is the other side of the pillow. Her and I were talking the other day and I told her that it felt like I was selfish because I was getting so much more from her and the kids than I could ever give. It's the most honest thing I can say. I went into town with Ken (the new volunteer who brought a guitar YEAH!!!) and Quinn (probably the most awesome Canadien since Ray Bourque). I bought 80 work books, 100 pencils, 10 sharpeners, and a bunch of erasers. I wrote in each one, with the help of Quinn and Sarah, the alphabet and 123... It felt good to bring them in and see the kids when I gave them out. I've been reading the bible and one of the things that Jesus taught us is that giving charity should be done in secret, well I Gong Showed that! Sorry JC.

I'm about as dirty as I've ever been and I don't mean in a porn sort of way I mean there is a filth on me, especially on my feet, that isn't going to come off for a long time. My clothes are never really clean, they just cease to smell which is good enough for me. The whole thing is fine. I don't mind being this dirty. It reminds me of camping and being a kid. Mom, was I always dirty? Bef, Amamam I dirtee Boy, cause, I tink it's...um..nice (oh wow, annoying voice in a journal, moving on).

I've broken one of my sandals so now I have a pink one and my American Eagle leather one. There is a smell in the air that I've never really smelled before. There are no landfills here and dump trucks are just sort of out of the question. What they do instead is collect enough garbage and then torch it. It makes for quite a smell and it's everywhere. It smells like ganja to be honest, and when that stuff is as readily available as it is, I have a hard time distinguishing. The dust, the heat, the bugs. Oh yes, I'm finally here.

Theres something else going on. I've struggled about what it is I want to write because I'm kind of on the defense about it. The dishonesty is everywhere. It's like the burning of garbage, you can't escape it. I feel like I could float on through the next month and a half and not confront it, but would I still be the man I want to be? I've been asking myself why I am here, in this place right now with the people that I'm with. The answer is simple for me, God wants me here. Maybe I can't see it clearly right now, but I know that bigger things are happening than I know what to do with. We're figuring it out and I'll be less cryptic about this in the future. I'm on it. The mix of dishonesty and warmth is amazing. What a gift to be in such a place. I have made so many friends that I will cherish. It's amazing, the people you meet in a place like this. So many things, so many things.

I'm off to Zanzibar in the morning with Quinn and Sarah for a long weekend of what my English friends would call, fuck all. I'm so looking forward to this time to chill out and regain my energy. I've recently been realizing more and more how everyone in my life has helped to shape the person that I am. All of you have made it possible and I feel you here with me at all times. I'm praying for all of you and hope that you are doing so well. I'm finally here and there is no where else I'd rather be.

Love,

Nathan

Mama Rose

Mambo,

I'minAfricaI'minAfricaI'minAfricaI'minAfricaI'minAfrica. I'm doing very well here in the Motherland these days. I've been loving my life lately. Where to begin, ok, I'm not in the orphanage these days, thats pretty big news. The trip there was over an hour and required a bike taxi, 2 dalla-dallas, and a 15 minute walk, and thats only one way. My knee was failing miserably. After a wonderful talk with the best fiancee in the history of fiancees and some common sense I decided to work closer to home. I'm now at Mama Roses (which is actually pronounced "Rocsies").

If you read the earlier entries you will know that going into her school was the first experience I had with African children and it turned out to have a lasting effect. It's a short walk from where I am living and I couldn't possibly tell you how amazing it is. The ages of the kids I'm working with ranges from 3-8 years old and as it turns out a lot of them are orphaned. They are beautiful and bright and funny, and loud, and ARGH, I wish you could all meet them. I'm helping to teach them everything from English to Mathmatics to Art etc. I've done what no good teacher should do and I've developed a favorite. Her name is Sabrina and she reminds me of what I was like when I was 5 years old. Bright, funny, and a world class smart ass. Every time she sees me she gives me the biggest hug. Did you hear that? Thats my heart melting.

Things at the house are good. We've said goodbye to 4 women in the house. Glennis, Karen, Lesley, and Margret. All beautiful women and all will be sorely missed. The time with them went by so quickly, however, when you're in Africa together with someone, you bond in such a different way. Left now are Quinn, Sarah, and Jamie, the latter of which there have been issues. I feel bad for Jamie because it almost feels like she didn't expect to be in sub-saharan East Africa. She is a little uneasy about stuff like no running water, no electricity, etc., etc., etc. I can't blame her, it's the roughest I've ever had it too, but I like it. I feel like I'm getting a more authentic experience with everything that goes wrong (just as long as I come home with all my extremities). Jamies a good kid, a little green, but a good kid and I feel like this trip will go a long way for her down the stretch. Quinn and Sarah on the other hand are loving their lives as well. I've had a chance to talk with them and get to know them in a way that I thought I might. They are the illest. We as in Nathan, Quinn, Sarah, AND Jamie are all the illest compadres in Dar.

Word.

Lets see, how about some adventure, I took a trip to the Kunduchi Ruins with Sarah after reading about them in Lonely Planet. Amazing. 300 year old Islamic tombs. I felt a little like Indiana Jones while I was there. I also took a trip to the Movenpick luxury hotel and resort. Most of the girls stayed the night there last weekend. It was terrible. I felt like a fraud being there. I don't stay in places that nice at home let alone getting up Monday to be with a kid whose mom had died last week from AIDS. I guess I just felt out of place and I can honestly say that was the first and last time I do luxury on this trip.

I rode in the back of a truck with a bunch of Muslims from Zanzibar. The guy in the back told me that Allah says to grow your beard because it will keep you healthy. The beard is staying, did you hear that world, THE BEARD IS STAYING! (obscure Muppet reference there) I went to a Tanzanian night club the other night. That was pretty funny. I was shocked at how similar it was to any other club. There are chickenheads and joeys everywhere apparently. The music was ok. I'd give it a C- at best.

All in all things really couldn't be better. I'm planning a trip to Zanzibar in a couple weeks and that is going to kick some serious exotic ass. I'm also seeing about the possibility of going on safari in Ruaha National Park. My friend Angela is starting university near there and has a cousin that she thinks I can stay with. We'll see about that. I'm working with the kids every day and I will tell you more about that as it continues to open my eyes. I miss you all so much and I'm thinking and praying for each and every one of you. Peace out cub scouts.

Nathan

Settling In

Mambo,

Africa. I'm still not quite here yet. Maybe a few more days and it might sink in. I'm getting along with all of my volunteer compadres pretty well. They are all so different than what I imagined but in a way that's even cooler. I ended up going to the orphanage that day and it was amazing. 80 kids in a space that could comfortably fit a family of 4...maybe. It was dank and musty and while I was visiting I could feel my throat get scratchy and my nose start to run. I've got a flu (or as I like to call it back home, a cold). Of all the things to get I mean I figured Malaria, Diareha, maybe even Typhoid, but a cold? That was about 238th on the list. Thank god I brought the small n, small y, big fucking Q. Thats right nyQuill has been saving me. Another thing that has been saving me is THIS COUNTRY.

I'm at ease a little more every day. That conversations that I have and things that I see are unbelievable. The trip to the orphanage proved to be too much on my knees which for those who don't know have torn ligaments in them. I'm now working closer to the house that I'm staying and I'll be at the orphanage on the weekends. Working in a developing country has it's ups and downs and unexpected too. the key is to seriously go with the flow. I understand now how important it is to stay open and I will understand it more as my time rolls on.

We haven't had running water since I got here. No shower, no problem. Those of you who know me know that it's a rare thing when I've showered on consecutive days and laundry isn't much of an issue either. Maybe for my compadres but not me. We eat some far out food here, some stuff I've never even heard of, but thank god I grew out of that whole picky eating thing. The food is great. I started work today at a nursery school close to home. The children are so unbelievable. They touch my skin and my beard may be as interesting as what I'm teaching. They are so intrigued by it. I let them do that and hang on me and touch me and I guess someone else would feel overwhelmed but the funny thing is, in some weird way, I feel like it's a blessing straight from God. I feel like I'm blessed to be here doing my part.

Last night my compadre Lesley from the U.K. told me of her day and how it had not gone so hot. She talked about wanting to do so much and that for all she's done (and she's done so much) that it felt like she hadn't made a dent. She logged on to her e-mail and got a message from her pastor and then logged on to her prayer site and in 10 minutes was feeling better already. When we were talking I was trying to think of an analogy. The one that I thought of was that if Africa is a mountain and to get better, that mountain must be covered with snow, we must concentrate on being our own snowflakes. Covering a mountain or even a tree with one snowflake is impossible. It takes millions of snowflakes to do this, but that doesn't mean that anyone of the snowflakes is insignificant. Sometimes we want to cover more ground than is possible and we lose sight of the fact that we are just one. I told her to concentrate on being your own change and peace and that would make all the difference. I'm doing the same. All snowflakes come from above and rest on the mountainside and from here, I can tell you, the view is amazing.

Salaama,

Nathan

The Motherland

(ps=pre script - this is my third time writing after two previous rntries have failed on account of power outages, but all of them will start with...)

...Oh My God,

I made it. Africa. On Monday I had an authentic English meal, fish and chips with mashed peas. Yum. I didn't do much because I wanted to show up to Heathrow early and thank God I did. It resembled an English refugee camp with all the people, confusion, and craziness. My flight to Dubai wasn't comfirmed untill about a half an hour before we were sceduled to leave. By the grace of God, it did. I had the most amazing conversation with an Iraqi from the UK. We talked about life, The Koran, and football. Dubai was hot and sandy and I wasn't there for very long. More over, I hadn't slept and it was already Wednesday. I boarded the flight and was dumbfounded when the entire plane filled up except for the seat next to mine. I had the perfect opportunityto lay out a little and catch some shut eye, but yet again, no sleep.

I arrived in Dar and went directly to immagration. After about 2 and a half hours, and a bunch of sweat, they stamped my passport giving me freedom to step into Tanzania. I pumped my fist and was out the door. I looked all around for the people there to meet me but did not see them. This guy came up to me and asked me if I needed a phone, I said yes and he took me to this place so I could call Angela. When I called her she told me she was at the arrivals point and I said I was the big muzungu (white person) in the red jacket. We found each other and I was so relieved. Angela is from Tanzania as is Luis. Hannah was also there with us and she is from Finland. The 4 of us drove out of the airport and into Dar. You should know that these are just straight up good people. I made them all laugh so hard (partly I believe because I was so punchy). I also suprised them with how much I knew about Tanzania and Swahili. All that preperation is payng off a little. The drive through the city was exactly how I expected it from all the pictures, tv shows, and movies I had seen. At the same time I was so consumed that it was so obviously like NOTHING I had ever seen. The people on bikes, shanty houses, the colors, the garbage, fires on side of the road, wow.

I arrived at the volunteer house and met all my roomates. There is a lady from the UK. Two from Canada. Four from the US. Five from Tanzania. I am the only guy. Not all that psyched but it's poa (poa=swahili for "cool"). After exchanging pleasentries, I started to try and set up my mosquito net. This is point in the story where not sleeping started to really work against me. I unraveled my net and the power shut off. I got a candle and on the top bunk of a rickety bed, while sweating my balls off, I wrestled with the net and my exaustion and my weariness. Right about then Bethany, all I could think about was you. Missing you comes in funny places, but I knew if you were there with me at that moment, I would have been ok. I feel like I can take on the world with you at my side, but without you sometimes, I wonder how I've made it this far. I almost had a breakdown when the woman from the UK, Louise, found me after 45 minutes and said to "not worry about it love, theres one in our room already set up, you can just stay with us in there, look at you you're exsausted, come get something to eat". One word. Angel. I finally crashed (sorry Pop) went to bed.

I got up this morning at 7am and saw everyone off and waited for Angela to give me orientation. I helped with the dishes and learned some more swahili while I was at it. It was cool because once all the volunteers left it was just me and the Africans. Angela finally came and we walked down to the hotel which about a half mile from where I'm staying. The Indian Ocean is beautiful. We went to the internet cafe and the power went out, for that matter, the water has been out the whole time too. I couldn't care less (most of you know that I skip a shower or two anyways!) Then the most amazing part of the day, we went by a nursery thats on the grounds here at the hotel. It is run by Mama Rosi and older Tanzanian woman. When I came through the door these 4-5 year old kids came rushing up to me. Some hugged me, some touched me, they all were like vieing for posistion to be around me. They were amazed by my glasses so I strted to put them on all of the kids and they loved it. They were so curious and in an instant, I knew why I had come. It was such an amazing feeling. I picked two of them up into my arms and kissed them on thier heads. I told Mama Rosi, I would be by to see everyone again and it was time for her to get control back of her class. I said goodbye and we moved on with orientation. I learned some more swahili and Angela told me some more stuff about where i will be at etc. I had some rice and lentil from lumch and then I went to the beach to get wet. I took a nap on one of the longe chairs and when I awoke I hung out with the 2 ladies from the Bronx. I know what you're saying, thousands of miles away and still with the friging Yankee fans, but alas, they are Mets fans. Phew. We had great conversation and know I'm here with you fine folks.

All in all it dosn't even feel real yet. Angela will escort me to the orphanage I'll be working at tomorrow. I have to take two dalla-dallas which are sort of like a bus but scarier to get there. For now though, I'm going to have dinner with Mama Rosi, Hannah, and Angela at thier place. I have to get going. This is so amazing. I miss you al so much and you're in my prayers.

Saalam,

Nathan

Jewel Of The North Atlantic

Ok, heres goes the update thing. After a crazy time in Heathrow airport and very little sleep, I made my way to London town. My first impression was like "hey, this is Europe". It's true, they drive on the wrong side of the road here. The people were cool right from the start, when I was trying to find my hostel. The place I'm staying is filled with young travelers. The staff is really nice and I've been eating Honey Nut Cherrios and PB&J's. I was dead tired when I got here but I did manage to muster the energy to go to Big Ben? No. Tower of London? No. Westminster Abbey? Closer. How about Abbey Road. Probably the most awesome crosswalk I'll ever cross. The security guard and I started talking and he let me come in a walk down a hallway. Wow. Hit the sack hard that night in my flatmateless room.

The next morning I awoke to my new roomies, get this, two kids from SLC. Mormans no less! Michelle and Austin in all honesty couldn't have been cooler. Just exactly who I would have chosen for hostel flatmates. I played the super tourist role that day and got tickets for a double decker sightseeing bus. Lame but it stopped and drove next to EVERYTHING. Drove past a lot of old stuff, which I won't recount but just know I was in respect and awe. Drove past a road that called itself home to Sir Elton John, Sir Paul Mcartney, and none other than Sir Sean Connery.

Got off at Buckingham Palace and it was like the White House on steroids. Huge square with a monstrous fountain in front of it. I walked through St. James park and stopped at Westminster Abbey. What an unbelievable experience that was! All sorts of Kings and Queens buried there and It's also the place where Kings and Queens get corrinated (on a sadder note, it was where Princess Di's funeral was). The history in this one place was exactly why I wanted to come here. From there I went to Parliament and oddly enough met up with Austin and Michelle. We took in the sights and moved on over the great river Thames. I hopped back on the bus and went to St. Pauls. If ever there was a house of God, this is it. When I entered the choir was singing and a service was already underway. Spellbinding. Later that night I ended up at the hostel and ended up in a political debate with an Aussie, two Frenchmen, and another American. Such good dialogue. I love being around all these people and aren't they PASSIONATE.

Saturday Michelle, Austin, and I awoke early, early and went to Notting Hill for the Portabello St. Market. We arrived and people were setting up. We asked for a breakfast place a man reccomended walking into one of the antique stores, going all the way to the back and up the stairs. Sure enough, there it was, full of locals and a traditional English breakfast (including baked beans). By the time we went back outside there were throngs of people coming in. The market was full of everything you could ask for. I got a present for my baby (you're gonna love this Beth) and just sort of wandered aimlessly.

I broke off from the gang and went to The Victoria&Albert museum. Probably the biggest museum I've ever been in. We'll say the coolest thing I saw was a gigantic Rapheal paintings in this room. There was also a Che Guvera exhibit, unexpected, but the more I learn about this man, the more i respect him. The National Museum was incredible with their painting by Monet, Manet, Renoir, Di Vinci, and Rembrandt to name just a few. I was really captured by Rembrandt for some reason. I identified with it and thats not something that happens all that often with me and art. I went to the National Portrait museum as well, but at that point I was getting tired. I hung out a Trafalger Square and decided to call it a day.

I went back to the hostel and hung out with my hommies. I also went down the hostel bar to have a shot at "Shot Night". I ended up hanging out with a guy from Maine named John. What a guy, he's traveling up to Scotland to perform in a Shakespeare fringe festival. I bought a shot for a Scottish guys 25th B-Day and played wing man for John while I chit chatted with this Aussie girls friends. I told them all the story of myself going back to Seattle to propose to Bethany and they got all like "AWWWWWWWW". I miss you Bethany, more than I can describe in a travel journal or in words for that matter.

I went to bed and today woke up a little groggy aka hung over. I went to The Tower of London today and marveled at the history of that place. I ended up getting a guided tour from an old Yomen or Beefeater (yes like the gin). It was funny and yet informative hmm. Traveled upriver to Shakespeares Globe theatre and couldn't stop thinking about Lamar. Dude, thats where it was...REALLY. I made it into the Tate Modern just long enough to see some Pollack, Dali, and Picasso. Wanted to see more but they ended up closing. I came back here to the hostel and ended up talking more politics and worldly shit with some absoloutly cool characters.

I guess I should've known I'd be a good traveler, I truly do love people and it's like this whole world has opened up to me in a way I couldn't have anticipated. The hostel life is full of youth and the partying and crap is a little past my time, they're cute and I'm a little older. It's all good though. I leave for Africa tomorrow. Can't speak about that yet, I'm still in London and London deserves my full attention at all times. This journey is amazing.

Cheers,

Nathan

p.s. - I still haven't found the Happiness Hotel.

Almost Gone

It's been a wild month. I'm not going to recount everything that's happened but the few things that I'll say are...My knees are in a shitload of pain from an accident I had, I went and hugged amma , Found out that Bethany is pregnant, I'm going to marry Bethany and raise our child child together , I turned 29, Had a terrible falling out with my best friend (I still love you kid), Had the best conversations with my my Grandparents that I've ever had, spent a week on the coast of Maine with my Mom in a simply beautiful place, And so many other things.

I'm now just mere hours away from leaving and I'm pretty anxious, nervous, excited, scared, anticipatory, hopeful. It's a constant struggle to keep centered and focus on what needs to be done before I get on that plane. No matter what the emotion, this is a hell of a feeling. I love it.
I went to the Hamlin family reunion earlier in the month and my Mom and Cousin Lester got into a discussion about traveling the world. He is a pediatrician and works with Doctors without borders. He told my mom that in times like these (Iraq, Lebanon, No. Korea etc.) that it was important to be a "soldier of peace". That what I intend to do. The world could use it and I'm just the guy filled with hope and love in my heart to give it out.

peace & balance,

Nathan